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    第五批國家級非遺代表性傳承人風采錄丨張小紅:傳承非遺 回饋社會

    2018-10-24 10:14:00

    (原標題:傳承非遺 回饋社會——訪夏布繡國家級代表性傳承人張小紅)

    5月15日,直到夜里10點,夏布繡國家級代表性傳承人張小紅才忙完一天的工作,有空坐下來接受記者采訪。當天上午,在江西新余夏布繡博物館舉辦的“夏布繡非遺文化宣講”主題活動上,張小紅給來館參觀的當地中學生講解夏布繡的歷史,并現場指導學生完成夏布繡作品;下午,又馬不停蹄地趕往南昌江西旅游商貿職業學院參加“國家級非物質文化遺產夏布繡進校園暨張小紅夏布繡大師工作室揭牌儀式”。

    張小紅自幼隨祖輩學習刺繡,憑著勤奮與對刺繡藝術的獨特領悟,形成了自己的藝術風格。16年前,張小紅只不過是一名普通女工,她未曾想到,自己從小熱愛的手藝,如今成為了創業的源泉和畢生奮斗的事業。

    夏布繡俗稱“麻布刺繡”,源于北宋,流傳于江西民間。由于江西特別是新余市分宜縣地區盛產夏布,當地老百姓就地取材,將夏布繡廣泛應用于兒童服飾、床上用品及宗教用品上。張小紅從小就生活在新余,她希望通過多年來的研究,創造出更有特色的夏布繡作品。

    剛開始嘗試夏布繡藝術創作時,張小紅就遇到了一個難關——夏布是以苧麻為原材料手工織造成的平紋布,不同于絲綢、棉布等常用繡地,夏布質地生硬,要在上面刺繡,相當費時費力。經過一段時間的反復試驗,2003年,張小紅終于研發出合適的夏布處理工藝。經過這種工藝處理過的夏布不僅手感柔軟,還能保持古樸的色彩。此外,張小紅還開發出適宜夏布繡的通透亂針、透底針、層疊針、芝麻針等針法。

    值得一提的是,張小紅很早就有了“人才培養、團隊打造、品牌建立”的意識。她先后在新余創辦了江西渝州繡坊,成立了新余市夏布繡藝術研究所,籌建了夏布繡博物館,打造了夏布繡傳習所,并依托場館和專家團隊資源,面向社會各界免費開展夏布繡技藝培訓。這些年來,張小紅及其團隊已免費培訓繡娘千余人,其中包括40多名高校藝術專業學生和200多名下崗工人、失地農民;帶動相關就業2000多人,在新余市形成了一個夏布繡文化產業集群。而張小紅的江西渝州繡坊,通過“公司+工作室+傳習所+博物館”的發展模式,也取得了經濟效益與社會效益的雙豐收,走出了一條集產品研發、人才培養、市場營銷于一體的夏布繡傳承創新發展之路。

    自2014年起,由于感受到傳統工藝市場的變化,張小紅和她的團隊開始思考相關產品的轉型,嘗試研究和制作一些夏布繡衍生產品,將現代設計融入傳統工藝,使夏布繡也能與時俱進。與此同時,張小紅也深深感受到,只有不斷學習,尤其是讓新的人才成長起來,夏布繡才能得到更好的傳承與發展。因此,近年來,張小紅先后選送了7名優秀繡娘到中國美術學院、湖南湘繡學院等高校及研究機構學習。

    張小紅透露,今年下半年,她將作為訪問學者到中國藝術研究院繼續深造。“我剛剛過完60歲生日,如果我能活到90歲,那么還有30年的時間能去守護和傳承夏布繡這項古老技藝,讓更多人一起為夏布繡的發展而努力。這是我畢生的夢想和使命!”張小紅說。

    轉自:中國非物質文化遺產保護中心公眾號

     
     
     
    備案許可證:贛ICP備12000010號
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    CopyRight © 江西省非物質文化遺產研究保護中心.All Rights Reserved
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